Glycolic Acid & Lactic Acid. These two organic acids are also called Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA). They are biologically occurring acids, obtained from sugars in certain plants or in milk. Some examples are Tartaric Acid (Grapes), Lactic Acid (Milk), Glycolic Acid (Sugar Cane), Citric Acid (Citrus Fruits), Malic Acid (Apples), and Mandelic Acid (Bitter Almonds). These acids work at the very base of the stratum corneum, dissolving the cement that holds dead skin cells together. This allows for an increase in cell turnover and modifies the structure of new stratum corneum being made.

Salicylic acid works from the external layer of the skin, dissolving skin layer by layer. Salicylic acid is a chemical composite with the formula C6H4(OH)CO2H, where the OH group is adjacent to the carboxylic acid group. This colorless crystalline organic acid is mostly used in organic synthesis and functions as a plant hormone. It is probably best known as a composite that is chemically similar but not identical to the active component of aspirin. The name derives from the latin word for the willow tree (Salix), from whose bark it can be obtained.

Commonly called beta hydroxy acid (compare to AHA), salicylic acid is the key additive in many skin-care products for the treatment of callouses, psoriasis, acne, keratosis pilaris, corns, stretch marks and warts. It treats acne by causing skin cells to slough off more quickly, protecting pores from clogging up. This action on skin cells also makes salicylic acid an important ingredient in several shampoos meant to eliminate dandruff. Use of straight salicylic solution may cause hyperpigmentation on unpretreated skin for those with darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick phototypes IV, V, VI), as well as with the lack of use of a broad spectrum sunblock.

Facial cleansers also include Camphor. This is a biological compound taken from wood of the camphor laurel (Cinnamonum camphora), a huge evergreen tree found in Asia (particularly in Borneo) and some other related trees in the laurel family, notably Ocotea usambarensis. Camphor is quickly assimilated through the skin and produces a feeling of cooling similar to that of menthol and works as mild local anesthesic and antibiotical substance.

Cleansers also include a little Phenol, which is a natural chemical of the formula C6H5OH. Its composition is that of an alcoholic group (-OH) bonded to a phenyl ring; it is thus an aromatic compound. It has antiseptic and anesthesic properties.

When an alpha-beta facial cleanser is used to clean oily skin the result is a more elastic, smoother skin, and a more even skin color.