Coopers Rock Climbing
An overlook-area is a prohibited area for rock climbing but still this area is home to some great climbing, which is no longer permitted. Coopers rock climbing was done primarily in the 70's and early 80's until a ban on the park were imposed in '85. It is still an awesome place to take pictures while visiting the park.
Problems with boulders are more in Motorcycle Rocks. In fact actual climbs are lesser than the boulder problems. These blocks contain boulder problems which are exhilarating and interesting.
Haystack Block is the block which is home to some of the best slab climbing in the park. The left line consists of two sport routes rebolting and the right line of bolts consists of Needle on the Haystack. Trad routes are to the back of the block and there is a project to the left of the rebolting development.
Greenback wall is a very high quality climbing. It has several thrilling climbs on it that are just great which is very similar to climbing at the New River Gorge. This clean face of rock climbing is of the finest quality. It has 1 trad climb Greenback 5.6, and several thrilling stellar 5.11 faces climb.
Roadside Rocks, the most popular, congested and trampled area of the park. You can get a map at the stand. This map will be helpful in providing details about various routes on the cliff or the Sunset Wall.
This area is also a famous bouldering cooper's rock climbing destination. Another popular climb is the one known as the Tendon Repair Kit. Huge boulder problems such as the Greenblock Testpiece, Woody's Arete, The Mountaineer Route, and many others are present in Roadside.
Sunset Wall Extension is the area which is beyond the standard Sunset Wall. This extends all around the woods and upstream up to the Raven Rocks. Coopers rock climbing is one of the finest in the park.
You can park your vehicles either at the main parking lot or at the lot before the main parking lot located on the right and follow the maintenance road on the opposite side of the road. Some of the popular blocks there are High Intensity Block with the super popular Pump it out and Funday Bulge both are top roped routes.
The Good Block in coopers rock climbing has several bolted and mixed climbs on it. A Very Good Climb 5.9 and A Good Climb are very famous here. Around the left side of this block is one of the tougher and thrilling uncompleted projects in the park. Chains and bolts are used to mark the peak of the climbing expedition project as well as to indicate the fall from the peak.
Green Acres is a place of little bit of a hike into, but really worth the hike. There is nearly as much traffic as most of the other areas of the park. Out in the woods with the Rattlesnakes and other critters this cliff is home to quite a few good varieties of rare species.
Raven Rocks is the favorite destination for the tourists of the park and home to very little quality climbing. A good overlook with not as much traffic as the main overlook, this area is near to the Green Acres so can be climbed the same day.