Climbing - AMS and Frostbite
AMS, Frostbite and many other environment related issues are inherent features of certain climbs. Knowing what produces them can help you avoid their harmful consequences.
AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness)
The percentage of oxygen in air decreases with altitude. Breathing it has health consequences, one of which is various forms of AMS. The symptoms range from mild headache and fatigue to dangerous levels of fluid in the lungs or the brain.
In more extreme cases HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) occurs, making breathing difficult. It can be fatal. HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) is a similar condition in which fluid builds up in the brain rather than (or at the same time as) the lungs. As the brain swells from the increased fluid, pressure rises inside the skull, resulting in impaired judgment and sometimes death.
Simple dizziness even from mild cases can lead to a serious injury or a fatal fall. Insomnia, one of the common results, causes sleep deprivation, producing reduced reflexes and dulled thinking. Nausea is one of the less dangerous results, but even that can lead to dehydration, which is problematic during a climb.
Fevers are not unknown among the cluster of conditions. At the least that can spoil the pleasure of a climb. At high altitudes it can result in permanent harm or even death. Comas are a real possibility.
The risk and the severity of altitude sickness can be curtailed. It occurs when the rate of ascent is more rapid than the body can adjust to. It's more likely at higher elevations, such as above 8,000 feet (2440 m) and when the rate of ascent is greater than about 1,000 feet (328 m) per day.
Taking the climb more slowly, not overexerting and taking plenty of fluids can help. Carrying a small oxygen bottle for supplemental supply can be helpful if used judiciously. Avoid any intake of alcohol in high altitudes, since that will make the condition more likely and worse.
Once symptoms occur, taper activity off sharply. Take Acetaminophen for headache, but don't take sleeping pills for insomnia. Be prepared to descend if the situation doesn't improve quickly. For high mountain climbs, it's often desirable to carry along a portable hyperbaric chamber to simulate lower altitudes as a treatment.
Frostbite
Frostbite occurs when tissue, usually closer to the skin surface and at the extremities, is damaged by excessive or prolonged exposure to low temperatures. The resulting tissue damage is painful - starting as a sensation of being stabbed by needles. If not treated, or in severe cases, it can lead to permanent nerve damage and even the need for amputation.
It's critical during high climbs or in cold conditions to take precautions against Frostbite.
Dressing appropriately is the first step. Well-insulated boots with the right socks will help protect feet. Waterproofing is important, since any moisture will create a 'tunnel' for heat exchange that increases the danger.
Good gloves are equally important, in order to protect the hands and fingers. Extremities are the more likely victims since the body's natural response to extreme cold is to tighten blood vessels there in order to preserve interior body temperature.
Heat is readily lost through the scalp, so a warm hat is important to keep overall body temperature at appropriate levels. But that is more an issue of hypothermia in general, rather than Frostbite in particular. However, any exterior body part can become frostbitten.
Before you take a high altitude or cold climb, be sure you know the risks and take precautions. Climbing can be a great adventure, provided you prevent it from becoming a tragedy.
