Climbing - Safety Guidelines for Novice Climbers

They may sound like daredevils when seen on TV or interviewed in an article, but experienced climbers are heavily focused on safety at all times. They understand the risks and the consequences of ignoring them.

Good safety begins before you even leave home. Letting others know where you plan to be, and for how long, and then following your planned route, are important. Cell phones often don't work in climbing locations. If you return late, having someone else know where you were going can make the difference between mild discomfort and hospitalization or worse. You should never climb alone, but even with a partner it's not always possible for someone to leave to go get help.

The first step in practicing safety has nothing to do with proper gear selection, inspection and use. It has to do with adopting the right attitude, the attitude of the professionals. Macho displays are the best way to injury, and falling is the least likely prospect.

A well-secured rope will keep anyone from falling under all but the most unusual circumstances. But pulled tendons, cracked kneecaps, head trauma from rocks and other injuries are much more likely when trying to impress others with non-existent expertise.

Awareness is the next virtue to develop. Keeping alert to your environment, your gear and your body are key. Your environment includes not only the mountain and the route, the weather and other physical factors, important as those are. It encompasses also those who are climbing with you. Loose rocks, incorrectly assessed holds and other factors can injure you and those with you. Staying alert can transform a serious problem into no more than an interesting tale to tell back at base camp.

Communication is equally important. Both visual and spoken signals are important between and among all climbing partners. Let them know what you're doing and what you plan to do. Listen carefully to what they say they plan and watch what they actually do.

Being in shape is a safety factor. You need to be fit enough to climb before you even go out on the mountain. It isn't necessary to be an Olympic athlete or a professional climber. But climbing is a strenuous activity. Being free from illness, injury and having the basic body strength to climb is important. Being well-prepared physically is too. Stretching and other warm-up exercises should always be undertaken prior to a climb.

You need to know what you're up against and listen to those that do. Assessing the mountain is a skill acquired over years. Most beginners won't even be able to conceive of what should be considered. That's one reason an experienced climbing partner is a must. Route selection, judging rock slide or avalanche risk, assessing toe holds and a thousand other decisions have to be made instantaneously and over time. Experienced climbers develop 'instincts' that are critical to safe climbing.

Proper gear maintenance and use are also part of the basic training needed to climb safely. Knowing how to belay, how to set a cam, when to use a backup rope and other technical issues are an essential part of the practice. Most climbers, for example, use a 9-11mm semi-elastic rope in order to cushion shock. But that rope does no good unless cams, nuts or other stays are properly placed and connected.

All these skills require a combination of classroom instruction, practice in a controlled environment and actual climbing experience in order to develop properly. Look for a good instructor and school first, and combine it with good self-instruction in attitude.

Climbing is among the most thrilling and spiritually uplifting activities possible. But you want to be in a condition after your first climb to do it again.